Few names in jewellery design evoke insurgency, like Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon. Their avant-garde creations have disrupted traditional notions of luxury, transforming costume jewellery into a form of artistic expression. Although both designers broke boundaries, their approaches differ drastically, each offering unique contributions to fashion.
We explore how Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon have reshaped jewellery design, focusing on their distinct aesthetics, signature pieces, and their impact on the industry.
The Influence of the Big 80s in Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon
The 1980s were defined by a blend of cultural upheaval, artistic innovation, and a bold redefinition of fashion. In jewellery design, the decade marked a shift away from subtlety and restraint, welcoming exaggerated statement pieces that matched the vibrant ethos of the era. During this time, Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon emerged as pioneers, each responding uniquely to the cultural and aesthetic currents of the period.
Tom Binns, a designer who fully embraced the punk rock movement, drew from the rebellion against societal norms that the genre represented. Punk was anti-establishment, and Binns translated this defiance into his jewellery.
In contrast, Erickson Beamon's founders, Karen Erickson, Vicki Beamon, and Eric Erickson, were influenced by the glamour of the 80s. They created pieces that celebrated excess, often drawing inspiration from historical periods like the Victorian and Art Deco eras while pushing contemporary design's boundaries.
Tom Binns: The Punk Rock Rebel
Tom Binns' designs are the epitome of rebellion. With his fearless use of unconventional materials, he disrupts the status quo of jewellery. Binns incorporates industrial and punk elements like safety pins, barbed wire, and metal spikes into his creations, symbolizing a break from the polished, pristine world of high-end jewellery.
His use of pearls is one of the most illustrative examples of his defiance. Pearls, traditionally a symbol of classic elegance, are spiked and paired with rough metals, creating a contrast between the conventional and the rebellious.
This daring approach attracted the attention of fashion luminaries. Binns' pieces were worn by influential figures such as Michelle Obama and Cate Blanchett, who both embraced the designer's provocative yet sophisticated approach. Binns became a key figure in what is sometimes referred to as the "anti-jewellery" movement—a style that favours imperfection and individuality over traditional glamour. He famously said that his inspiration came from various sources, such as art, politics, and cinema, rather than fashion, which he referred to as “the dead art.” He has also emphasized that his jewellery designs aim to challenge conventional beauty standards, embracing chaos and anarchy influenced by the Dada movement.
Erickson Beamon: Maximalism and Glamour
Erickson Beamon, in contrast, embraced opulence and extravagance, making "more is more" the cornerstone of their design philosophy. The brand quickly gained a reputation for its highly detailed, maximalist pieces that combined vintage influences with modern twists. Beamon's jewellery was often defined by layers of pearls, crystals, and colourful gemstones, arranged in ways that spoke to the glamour of the 1980s while still remaining timeless and paying homage to the fashion excess of generations that preceded it.
Erickson Beamon's approach to design was also deeply theatrical, reflecting the grandiosity of the decade. Their pieces became fixtures on red carpets and editorial spreads, embraced by celebrities like Beyoncé, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Rihanna. The brand's ability to merge old-world opulence with modern extravagance made it a staple in high-fashion circles.
Signature Designs of Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon
Both Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon designers have produced iconic pieces, but their signatures reveal the profound differences in their design philosophies.
For Tom Binns, the safety pin necklace stands out as one of the most symbolic of his punk roots. Once seen as mere utilitarian objects, safety pins are elevated to high fashion, serving as both a statement and a protest. His pearls designs further exemplifies his approach to blending chaos and elegance, while his mismatched earrings styles highlight his playful subversion of symmetry.
On the other hand, Erickson Beamon's 'rock candy-like' necklace epitomizes the brand's love for colour, extravagance, and glamour. Their Bridal Collection is another notable line, featuring intricately detailed pieces that blend timeless elegance with bold contemporary design. Each Erickson Beamon piece is a celebration of maximalism, creating jewellery that demands attention and admiration.
The Lasting Influence of Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon
The influence of Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon on the luxury jewellery industry is far-reaching. Tom Binns has been credited with inspiring a wave of designers who seek to disrupt traditional aesthetics, encouraging them to embrace imperfection and individuality.
Erickson Beamon, meanwhile, has left its mark on the world of statement jewellery. Their bold, maximalist designs have redefined glamour for a new generation.
Though their styles differ dramatically, Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon are committed to pushing the boundaries of jewellery design. Binns' embrace of punk rock's raw energy and Erickson Beamon's celebration of maximalist glamour both reflect a desire to challenge the status quo.
As fashion continues to evolve, the rebellious spirits of these designers will undoubtedly inspire future generations. Whether it's through Binns' chaotic yet beautiful deconstructions or Erickson Beamon's theatrical, opulent designs, both brands have left an indelible mark on the jewelry world, proving that true luxury lies not in tradition but in bold creativity and self-expression.
Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon at Around the Block
At Around the Block in Toronto, we are thrilled to have both Tom Binns and Erickson Beamon in our current consignment inventory. No matter which brand you prefer, one thing is sure: these iconic jewelry pieces will not last long. Drop by our showroom to see our full luxury costume jewellery collection from all the top brands today.
